In July 2022, I made an ascent of Nadelhorn (4327m) in Switzerland, via the Northeast ridge (PD) from the Saas Valley.
Our original objective was the adjacent, more difficult Lenzspitze (4294m) Northeast ridge and traverse (AD). However, conditions were not favourable enough for this, with the possibility of verglas on the steep ridge making it too dangerous. Nadelhorn provided a consolation prize, being a great day of ridge climbing and a great opportunity to scope the Lenzspitze route.
Approach to Mischabelhütte
Departing our hotel in the Saas valley at 8am, we caught a bus up to the resort village of Saas-Fee from where we could catch the Stafelwald gondola up to the beginning of the approach to the Mischabelhütte (3340m). There was a thunderstorm approaching which we were expecting to hit our location in the mid-afternoon, so we were keen to do the ~1000m ascent to our base hut before the precipitation began.
It took about 3 hours to ascend the series of switchbacks and via ferrate to gain the Mischabelhütte. The accommodation (~80CHF per night) was superb and the food was plentiful. Surprisingly, the transient thunderstorm was enough to ensure this huge hut was nearly empty. We shared the large dormitories with only ~6 other climbers.
Ascent of the Northeast Ridge
We awoke at 3:30am for a 4:30am departure from the Hut. About ~20cm of snowfall overnight provided a blanket which meant traversing of the Hohbalmgletshcer had to be done carefully to avoid crevasses. It took us about an hour to reach the Windjoch and gain the NE ridge. Darkness and fog enshrouded us until we were onto the ridge proper.
The sun blasted over the horizon, burning away the clouds and clearing our view as we began ascending the NE ridge. The ridge ascent was relatively easy technically, but care had to be taken due to the cornice, strong wind gusts (up to 70km/h) and the steep potential slide into the basin beside us. It was mostly a snow plod with poles, and the occasional easy scramble over rocky sections.
After reaching the summit, we returned to the hut via the same route we had just ascended. No abseiling was required. The ascent took ~7 hours hut-to-hut. We descended the ridge below the hut in another 2 hours to arrive at Saas-Fee that afternoon.
