The Easter long weekend was created for one thing: 4 days of climbing at a world class venue in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia! This year saw a bigger crowd than ever before, with many visitors from interstate and overseas coming to sample the finest rock we have to offer. I was lucky enough to climb with Reto Redeagle from Switzerland, and the trip saw us get on some multi-pitch, multi-star classics!
Day 1 – Warm up at Goat Crag.
Warming up with some single pitch climbs at Goat Crag. On ‘You’ve goat to be kidding’ (13)Reto leads ‘Do not pass goat’ (13), Goat Crag.I second Reto up ‘Do not pass goat’, Goat Crag.Reto leads ‘Eloquent Desire’ (16), Goat CragReto jams his way through the crux of ‘Eloquent Desire’The fun never stops – slacklining at base camp
Day 2 – Hitting up some real climbs at the Ramparts. The day ended with an alpine-flavoured finish, abseiling off of ‘Hangover Layback’ in the dark.
Day two – looking down the first pitch after leading the brutal direct start (15) to Nervine (grade 12 without the direct start – five pitches). It began with a heinous bottomless chimney. Much screaming required to get through it.Reto seconds the first pitch of ‘Nervine’Reto leads the horrendously thin and exposed crux of the second pitch of ‘Nervine’ – “This is a grade 12? Are you fucking kidding me?!”Reto on pitch 2 of ‘Nervine’Looking down after leading pitch 3 of ‘Nervine’Building anchors is a fun and creative process – stacked nuts have become a favourite placement of mineReto nears the end of pitch 3 of ‘Nervine’Reto leads pitch 4 of ‘Nervine’Beautiful views after the fifth and final pitch of ‘Nervine’On top of the cliff, with the Flinders Ranges in the background.Awesome views of Wilpena Pound during the walk-offThe grade 6 decent gully adds a bit more adventure to the experienceDay 2 afternoon – a late start on pitch 1 ‘Hangover Layback’ (15)Reto on the second pitch of ‘Hangover Layback’Onwards and upwards into the evening sky!Kristy joins me on the first belay ledge of ‘Hangover Layback’Looking back at my belayer/photographer after leading the exciting ‘hand traverse’ on pitch 3 of ‘Hangover Layback’. To much excitement to get the money shot of the no-feet traverse!Colours get more intense as dusk sets in – still on the third pitch of ‘Hangover Layback’Pitch 3, ‘Hangover Layback’Finishing the final pitch in the dark.Kristy follows in the dark, getting ready for a night abseil by torchlight.
Day 3 – after much time waiting for the climb to become free, we jumped on the intensely memorable ‘Miles From Nowhere’. This was a step-out for me in terms of grades: it was only meant to be an 18, but felt more like a 22 to me.
Day 3 – looking up at ‘Flying Butress’Day 3 – Watching Matty on ‘Moondance’ (15)Reto leads pitch 1 of ‘Miles From Nowhere’ (crux grade 18, 3 pitches)On the hanging belay ledge after pitch 1 of ‘Miles From Nowhere’ (16)Reto leads the second pitch (crux 18) of ‘Miles From Nowhere’Pumping through the crux of the second pitchI look down after the crux of the third pitch of ‘Miles From Nowhere’ (14)Reto seconds up the final part of pitch 3 of ‘Miles from Nowhere’
Day 4 – Time to leave to get back home for work…but not before sending something exhilarating! ‘Outside Chance’ did not fail to excite. The most airy climb I’ve ever lead.
Day 4 – I get ready to lead ‘Outside Chance (16), whilst Nicki prepares to lead ‘Downwind of angels’ (19)Looking back down after getting past the terrifying thin and exposed crux of ‘Outside Chance’. Nothing says ‘exposed’ like an arete that starts on a terrace already 20m above the ground!Nicki doing battle with ‘Downwind of Angels’Top of the first pitch of ‘Outside Chance’.I never get sick of the views at this place.Reto seconds pitch 1 of ‘Outside Chance’Cliffhanger shot!Reto begins leading the ‘one move wonder’ pitch 2 of the Buckley’s variant (17) of ‘Outside Chance’Second pitch of ‘Outside Chance’Seconding pitch 2 of ‘Outside Chance’The Great Wall
What more can I say? This place is the shit. It will chew you up and spit you out – everyone comes home covered in cuts and bruises…but everyone wants to go back. Its not just the balls-deep, sandbagged climbing or the world-class rock: its the bush camping, the daily 40 minute walk-in, the lack of toilets, the poorly defined trails, the stunning views and the lizards everywhere that make this place what it is.
