Furka Pass, Switzerland, 2022

In July 2022, I went to the Furka Pass area in Switzerland to go climbing with my good friend Reto. We spent 4 days staying the the Sidelen-Hütte, from which we climbed Klein Bielenhorn (2940m), Galenstock (3586m) and Gross Furkahorn (3169m). We were grateful to enjoy superb weather and incredible alpine granite.

Day 1 – Approach to Sidelen-Hütte, traverse of Bielenhorner

Driving up through Realp, we parked at the Restaurant Furkablick from which we packed our bags and started the ~1.5 hour approach to Sidelen-Hütte. The temperature was a warm ~12 degrees and the views were spectacular in the clear sunshine.

Carpark at Restaurant Furkablick.
Approach to the hut.
Our home for the next 4 days. Galenstock is visible as the peak in the centre of the photo.
The lovely sapphire blue lake next to the hut.
Sidelen-Hütte.

After arriving at Sidelen-Hütte and checking in, we stripped down our packs and got ready for a light warmup. We strolled up to Bielenhorner which offered some gentle 4b climbing along the west ridge. The traverse took us ~4 hours hut-to-hut, and whilst quite easy and well protected with bolts, offered some excellent exposure and views of the larger surrounding peaks.

Looking up at Klein Bielenhorner W ridge.
Excellent views from Klein Bielenhorner.

Day 2 – Galenstock (3586m)

Galenstock, via the Southeast spur was a 12 hour hut-to-hut effort from Sidelen-Hütte. A very enjoyable day out, involving some glacier travel, via ferrata, granite ridge climbing, and 8 pitches of abseiling. The summit afforded excellent views of the nearby Rhonegletscher and peaks of Winterstock and Gross Bielenhorn. Given the long lasting sunlight, we didn’t rush, awaking at 5am for a 6am departure. This gave us plenty of time to get back to the hut for the 6:30pm dinner serving.

Ascending the glacier towards the via ferratta, which helped us gain the ridge on the righthand side of the photo.
View down from halfway up the via ferratta.
Reto ascends the via ferratta.
Topping out the via ferratta onto the Tiefengletscher, with the view of the Galenstock SE spur visible above.
Beginning the first pitch of the SE spur.
Gross Bielenhorn visible as I look down.
Topping out the SE spur, the true summit becomes visible. Another 45 minutes of careful cramponing necessary to reach the top.
A cross is on every summit in Europe, for some reason…
View of Rhonegletscher from the summit of Galenstock.
The 8 pitches of abseiling begins…
Views from the abseiling station.

Day 3/4 – Gross Furkahorn

After a much needed rest day spent strolling around near the hut and swimming in the freezing lake, we got ready for an ascent of the Gross Furkahorn via the ESE ridge (crux 4b). This ridge was slightly more exposed and slabby than Galenstock SE spur, and after attempting to climb the first 3 pitches in mountain boots, I switched to my rock shoes for a bit of extra grip. The route culminated in one of the sharpest and most prominent rock summits I’ve ever seen, even requiring some overhung climbing right before topping out! The granite was superb, super solid and offered great natural protection. Bolts were available all along the route which helped to guide the way. It took us ~8 hours hut to hut moving at a comfortable pace.

Gross Furkahorn, view from Sidelenhutte. ESE ridge is visible to the left of the summit.
Reto leads the second pitch.
I look down after leading a very exposed knife-edge ridge. This was the point at which I decided to switch to rock shoes. Too slabby for boots!
Reto disappears over an edge as he leads ahead.
View of Galenstock from Gross Furkahorn ESE ridge.
Looking down at Reto after leading the second-to-last (overhanging) pitch below the sharp summit.
The sketchy descent gully.
Final hour of glacial moraine bashing to get back to the hut. Exhausted but feeling great!