Grampians New Year’s 16-17

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What better way to spend New Year’s Eve than camping with great friends from around the world, and climbing on some of the best rock in the universe? This is the best kind of party I can imagine. The Northern Grampians has a huge concentration of stellar routes, bolted and trad, that span from introductory grades all the way to the grade 30+ lines of Taipan Wall. We lucked out, with mostly perfect 26 degree dry weather. Cracker weekend and an awesome start to 2017!

Day 1 – Wave Wall

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A slightly overhanging wall with lines that were bolted fairly recently, spanning from grade 18 to 21. A great place to get some intermediate grades into the tick list. Walk in takes ~20 minutes.

Livan warms up on 'Holy Batmania' (18*)
Livan warms up on ‘Holy Batmania’ (18*)
Mieka jumps on 'Commissioner Gordon' (19**)
Mieka jumps on ‘Commissioner Gordon’ (19**)
I try (and fail miserably) to tick pumpy 'Poison Ivy' (21*) whilst Gareth crushes 'Commissioner Gordon' (19**)
I try (and fail miserably) to tick the pumpy ‘Poison Ivy’ (21*), whilst Gareth crushes ‘Commissioner Gordon’ (19**)
Angelina attempts 'Holy Human Fly' (21*) - judged the trickiest route at the crag by consensus.
Angelina attempts ‘Holy Human Fly’ (21*) – judged the trickiest route at the crag by consensus.
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The shade creeped in around 3pm. Luckily it wasn’t too hot, however this crag is definitely not for days over 30 degrees – wait until the afternoon for it to go into the shade or you’ll be cooked.
Livan on 'Holy Human Fly' (21*)
Livan on ‘Holy Human Fly’ (21*)

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Smiles all round. Such an amazing place!
Smiles all round. Such an amazing place!

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Day 2- Tribute wall and Van Diemen’s Land

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New Year’s Eve had slightly cooler and overcast weather. We spent half the day ticking facey routes at Tribute wall, described in the guidebook as ‘The Grampians answer to Nowra’s Decent Gully Walls’….’Densely packed fun’.

The obligatory group photo during the walk in. Such a great bunch of people, such a great New Year's party!
The obligatory group photo during the walk in. Such a great bunch of people, such a great New Year’s party!
Overview of Tribute wall and surrounds
Overview of Tribute wall and surrounds
Tom sends 'Inexcessive' (17)
Tom sends ‘Inexcessive’ (17)

 

Ang warms up on 'In Halen' (19**)
Ang warms up on ‘In Halen’ (19**)
Angelina attempts
Angelina attempts

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Mieka on 'In Halen' (19**)
Mieka on ‘In Halen’ (19**)
The crowd looks on...
The crowd looks on…

After a solid morning at Tribute wall, we proceeded to traverse along the cliffside to Van Diemen’s land, where some very atmospheric and technical routes awaited.

Walking over to Van Diemen's Land in the afternoon after Tribute wall.
Walking past Bad Moon Rising crag whilst heading over to Van Diemen’s Land in the afternoon, after finishing up at Tribute wall.
Angelina going for the stellar route 'Terminal Insomnia' (22***)
Angelina going for the stellar route ‘Terminal Insomnia’ (22***)

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Mieka on 'Body Count' (24***)
Mieka on ‘Body Count’ (24***)

 

Walking out completely shattered, and completely satisfied.
Walking out completely shattered, and completely satisfied.

 Day 3 – West Flank

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One of the easiest walk ins to a crag I’ve ever done, this place near Mt. Zero picnic area has bolted routes that are so new they didn’t make it into the 2015 guidebook. Mostly facey technical climbing, a great way to start 2017 before heading home!

Jens onsights 'Dirty Bomb' (17**)
Jens onsights ‘Dirty Bomb’ (17**)

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Grace on my favourite route of the day 'Nuclear Error' (19*)
Grace on my favourite route of the day ‘Nuclear Error’ (19*)
Matty crushing 'Unravelling Fukishima (23*)
Matty crushing ‘Unravelling Fukishima (23*)

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Angelina sends 'Melting Moments' (24**)
Angelina sends ‘Melting Moments’ (24**)

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Mike easily cleaning the very facey and technical 'Nuclear Wasteland' (20*)
Mike easily cleaning the very facey and technical ‘Nuclear Wasteland’ (20*)

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Best New Year’s I’ve ever had. I will definitely be coming back here. The Northern Grampians have so much climbing, and it’s all so convenient and densely concentrated. The rock is five star quality, and the crags feel remote enough that you feel like you’re on an adventure, even though the main camp is only a 10 minute drive away. Can’t wait to come back!

 

 

 

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